Surfing in PE

Let's face it. PE is not known for its swell, the bay is too protected from the predominant SW swells for any size waves to get in.

When a south swell comes in then it is party central. I have had the fortune of hooking a few of the good south swells when they hit PE and can honestly say when they come in, PE has some of the best waves on the planet. Sadly not often enough to warrant boasting.

Which brings me to the reason for this waffle. Which is the best wave in PE? Impossible to answer really, Fence when it is on is a class act A frame peak. It stopped working for years and only recently has started to show its form again. Rincon when it is on is as long a ride as J'Bay, not as intense but it has its speed sections. I used to ride a longer board there to get over the flat sections and scored some of the longest, funnest rides of my life there. Millers can get perfect, it even reminds me of small Supers at times. Aavalanche? If it wasn't for the speed bump it would be up there.

There is no doubt though, in anyone's mind, which is the swakkest wave in PE.

The Pipe. It is remarkable though, it is also the most crowded.

I recall surfing Rincon many years ago, going holistically off, 800 meter rides and two other ou's in the water. Pipe? 35. I counted. They could see me riding waves all the way from the Beacon to Black bottoms and getting out to walk back as the paddle was just too far, easier to walk. That's PE surfers for you. They can see ou's getting classic waves and sit at the vlammest wave in town.

The Pipe is a bit of an institution in PE surfing. Park there for a day and almost always you will meet someone you know (that's if you are a PE surfer) if you park long enough. I visit PE rarely these days but when I do, the Pipe has an irrestible allure. I can't help but turn into the car park and do a quick surf check. It is invariably flat or a vlam pig dribble wave suited for longboards and bored surfers. And I invariably see someone I know who sees me and says 'howzit bru' with a puzzled look on his face, trying to remember my name and wondering if he has lost his mind because he hasn't seen me for so long but I am a PE boy so he must have seen me recently...
Most of us learned to surf there and we have a bit of a soft spot for the place. Even though it is a crap wave. That's why, I think, PE surfers tend to go there. It certainly isn't because it's the best wave in town.


I have only once in my life seen Pipe really cooking and then Rincon was WAY better. So why do I do it? Surf there? It is simple, Pipe is a consistent piece of pigdribble and it is where I first stood up on my 7'6'' pintail Safari. An indescribable moment of pure ecstasy permanently etched in my mind. It was a left. All of 2 foot and I rode it all the way in to the beach. Stoked. Life changed irreversibly. Every time I paddle out at Pipe it brings back those little memories. Like the first time I paddled out and kept slipping off the board. I didn't know you had to put wax on it.


So there we have the bizarre situation of a town which has great waves when it gets them but it generally doesn't so the worst wave is the most popular. I miss PE and the fact that it is only an hour from the Bay...