Miller's. I surfed Miller's this morning at five foot. This is the equivalent of winning the lottery as far as I'm concerned. Here for a week and Boomangamaaaan, the swell jacks up and I get three sweet waves before the wind got too strong and chopped the waves up into a mess.
Taking off at the rock, sheesh, last time I did that was twenty years ago. When P.E. gets swell it is just retarded. Sick waves, mellow vibe in the water, everyone happy. Rincon is trying desperately to line up. If Kahuna really cares then the wind will swing and surfers in PE will all be walking around with inane cheesy grins.
The whole of the bay is cranking at the moment and as soon as the wind swings to offshore, there is a good chance I will score Rincon at the same size or bigger. Given the skunkings I have recieved the last few years, this is payback time. Christmas morning at Rincon. Then...Durban on Boxing day.
It will probably swing onshore at sunrise.
sheesters, cranking millers on christmas eve!!?? lucky fish. very cool blog.
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